La cosmetica Bio rappresenta ancora una nicchia di mercato ma sta vivendo negli ultimi anni una crescita sorprendente: la crisi dei consumi non ha potuto frenare la curiosità dei consumatori e delle consumatrici che hanno deciso di abbandonare la cosmetica tradizionale. Il motivo? Stare bene con se stessi e con l’ambiente che ci circonda.
La principale fiera internazionale specializzata Bio-Fach (a Norimberga dal 16 al 19 febbraio 2011) continua a mostrare segnali di forte crescita. Il numero di aziende con certificazione Bio in Italia sta aumentando. Alessandro Spadoni, responsabile dell’area Bio-ecocosmetica di ICEA (Istituto per la Certificazione Etica e Ambientale) afferma che in un anno i prodotti cosmetici “BioEcologici” garantiti da ICEA sono aumentati del 23% (nel 2010 se ne contano ben 2.847) come anche il numero totale di aziende certificate (nel 2010 sono circa 160, tra i nomi più noti Erbolario e Bottega Verde).
VIDEO ICEA http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6S_bKItYH5w
Le multinazionali della cosmetica non stanno a guardare: L’Oréal nel 2006 ha acquisito Sanoflore, un laboratorio di cosmetica biologica nato nel 1986 nel Parco Nazionale del Vercors, in Francia. Sanoflore è ad oggi l’unica marca del gruppo con un’estrazione Bio che risponde ad uno dei marco-trend del mercato. Ad oggi il peso in termini di vendite è ovviamente contenuto rispetto ai grandi marchi del gruppo come Vichy, Lancome e L’Oréal Paris, ma le prospettive di crescita future fanno ben sperare. I prodotti Sanoflore possono essere acquistati in farmacia, il canale che cresce di più a livello mondiale (+15% nell’ultimo anno): secondo L’Oréal è lì che un consumatore può acquistare con fiducia un prodotto biologico, supportato dai consigli e dalla professionalità del farmacista.
Matteo Cuomo, Responsabile Marketing Sanoflore per il marcato italiano, ci racconta che “il segmento della cosmetica biologica ha un peso diverso a seconda dei paesi. In Francia e in Germania il tasso di penetrazione è di circa il 16-17%, contro una media italiana che si attesta intorno al 6-7%: ci sono però alcune categorie (prodotti per il corpo) e alcuni target (le famiglie con figli) dove la penetrazione è più elevata. Certamente i mercati tedeschi e francesi sono i più sviluppati in Europa: qui la sensibilità bio del consumatore è maggiormente sviluppata in tutti i settori e non solo nella cosmetica. In Francia le consumatrici sono triplicate negli ultimi 2 anni, passando dal 5% al 18%”.
Cosa distingue Sanoflore dagli altri marchi sul mercato? Il controllo totale della filiera e il rispetto della biodiversità attraverso la coltivazione di piante ormai poco utilizzate e la promozione della policoltura presso i fornitori di materie prime. Nella maggioranza dei casi queste materie prime provengono dal partner storico, SICA Bioplantes, un gruppo di 45 piccoli produttori locali.
Cosa possiamo aspettarci dalla cosmetica Bio nei prossimi anni? Secondo Matteo Cuomo “la cosmetica biologica sta diventando sempre più una cosmetica green rivolta al futuro, dove il Bio e gli oli essenziali, in particolare, si rivelano un terreno fertile per competere con la ricerca tradizionale e gli ingredienti di sintesi. La grande forza della cosmetica Bio oggi è questa: dimostrare scientificamente di poter sostituire gli ingredienti di sintesi con ingredienti attivi di origine vegetale, altrettanto efficaci e tollerabili. Gli oli essenziali più efficaci potrebbero in futuro essere impiegati in altri prodotti della cosmetica tradizionale”. Insomma, sembra proprio che il segreto della crescita sia nelle piante.
L'articolo è stato pubblicato anche su www.affaritaliani.it
http://www.affaritaliani.it/green/cosmetica_bio280710.html
20.7.10
INTERNATIONAL: Interview to Frans Prins, co-founder THEKEY.TO, Berlin
How did the idea of THEKEY.TO start?
The idea to start THEKEY.TO started from the need to build a strong, international platform for sustainable fashion in Berlin. After organizing network meetings and workshops, it was time for the next step, and so we started to brainstorm about a trade fair and a knowledge platform. Soon, THEKEY.TO was born, having a strong creative and innovative drive that suits quite well the the city.
What can you say about this third edition?
The third edition of THEKEY.TO was for all an acceleration of quality. The selection of brands we showcased was wonderful and showed again the theme of sustainability is still growing strong, the location was good, the looks especially upstairs with the Gallery and Magazine stands was special and light and inspiring. It was very hot, and that lead to some decrease of visitors on all fairs in Berlin, but those who where there where good visitors: buyers, press, agencies, consultants. Also with the Academy we have built up our knowledge platform to a higher level, with speakers like Tony Tonnaer, the ex-CEO of Kuyichi, Peter Ingwersen from Noir, Dr. Otto von Busch from the Götenborg University and Tamsin Lejeune from Ethical fashion Forum we had some high profile speakers, a very intense 6-day-expert program in a futuristic venue.
Why did you feel there was the need to organize a six day program of workshops and talks? Which are the most important outcomes of the ACADEMY discussion?
Well, we organize this project with a strong drive to change and innovate the industry. So it makes sense to push this change on a knowledge level. The next generation of designers and fashion professionals should and will be much more aware of the impact of production. That's just going to become much more normal in our whole society. Those who have the better knowledge and experience on this topic, have an advantage as well. The discussions and speeches at the Academy where intense. I think the most important outcome was a strong awareness among the participants of the complexity of the topic. It is not only about buying a nice organic fabric, it is also about discussing what really is the most sustainable solution in the end and how to get there: back to organic, natural fibers or a revolution in the chemical production? The contents of Academy where a big success, considering it was the first time we organized it, and I would definitely like to develop this into something more.
Among the different price segments (mass market, bridge, diffusion, pret-a-porter, couture) where most of the brands that partecipated to THEKEY.TO are positioned?
We show a portfolio that reaches from urban and street fashion brands to more premium and upscale brands. I think we have a particular good portfolio for Berlin citizens; some cool shirts and hoodies to hang around with in a park in Kreuzberg. Some avant garde brands like Milch to wear at a Gallery opening in Mitte, some basics for the weekend, some chic jackets and dresses for your visit to Charlottenburg, and some trendy stuff to always do well in Prenzlauerberg.
“The winning outfits fit perfectly with the ideas of the two award initiators - that green fashion has to convince not only for its fairness and sustainability, but just as importantly, for its style and design”. This is the concept that THEKEY.TO and DaWanda want to transmit with “READY TO GREEN” Award.Do you believe there is still a paradox to be solved between green fashion and aesthetics?
Well, there's always a reality far beyond the stereotypes. Over the last five years, the possibilities to produce sustainable, to source the right materials and the quality of these materials increased a lot, meaning there's a lot of varieties in green fashion, from a more natural style and coloring, which is a strong segment and also has very stylish and premium examples such as the brand Banuq from Italy, Eelementum form Holland or Flavia Aranha from Brazil. But there's also a lot of brands that have a style that doesn't show this natural profile at all, that are edgy or freaky or just very fashionable. Take a Studio Jux from Holland, a Article23 from France or a Pants to Poverty from the UK. More and more brands show a trend away from any "organic look" towards a more contemporary look. Off course some things are hard to do sustainable, but if I look at my own wardrobe, I have thrown out most synthetic clothes just because I don't feel like this weird plastic stuff on my skin.
What are the main changes that took place in green fashion in the last years? What do you expect for the future?
The production of organic cotton has been rising rapidly, and there's more and more brands to work sustainable or plan to go more sustainable. Although the economical crisis also hit the green brands, it is amazing to see that the market of green fashion products has still been growing. More and more brands will start to commit themselves to a more sustainable approach, and the impact of new sustainable fibers will be larger. And as with the other industries, there's no way back, although in fashion there's still a long, long way to go. This revolution of greening our economy will be in the history books for sure. I hope also social issues will be more on the agenda again, cause the talk is a lot about green and not too much about labour conditions, another topic that still needs to be dealt with properly.
The idea to start THEKEY.TO started from the need to build a strong, international platform for sustainable fashion in Berlin. After organizing network meetings and workshops, it was time for the next step, and so we started to brainstorm about a trade fair and a knowledge platform. Soon, THEKEY.TO was born, having a strong creative and innovative drive that suits quite well the the city.
What can you say about this third edition?
The third edition of THEKEY.TO was for all an acceleration of quality. The selection of brands we showcased was wonderful and showed again the theme of sustainability is still growing strong, the location was good, the looks especially upstairs with the Gallery and Magazine stands was special and light and inspiring. It was very hot, and that lead to some decrease of visitors on all fairs in Berlin, but those who where there where good visitors: buyers, press, agencies, consultants. Also with the Academy we have built up our knowledge platform to a higher level, with speakers like Tony Tonnaer, the ex-CEO of Kuyichi, Peter Ingwersen from Noir, Dr. Otto von Busch from the Götenborg University and Tamsin Lejeune from Ethical fashion Forum we had some high profile speakers, a very intense 6-day-expert program in a futuristic venue.
Why did you feel there was the need to organize a six day program of workshops and talks? Which are the most important outcomes of the ACADEMY discussion?
Well, we organize this project with a strong drive to change and innovate the industry. So it makes sense to push this change on a knowledge level. The next generation of designers and fashion professionals should and will be much more aware of the impact of production. That's just going to become much more normal in our whole society. Those who have the better knowledge and experience on this topic, have an advantage as well. The discussions and speeches at the Academy where intense. I think the most important outcome was a strong awareness among the participants of the complexity of the topic. It is not only about buying a nice organic fabric, it is also about discussing what really is the most sustainable solution in the end and how to get there: back to organic, natural fibers or a revolution in the chemical production? The contents of Academy where a big success, considering it was the first time we organized it, and I would definitely like to develop this into something more.
Among the different price segments (mass market, bridge, diffusion, pret-a-porter, couture) where most of the brands that partecipated to THEKEY.TO are positioned?
We show a portfolio that reaches from urban and street fashion brands to more premium and upscale brands. I think we have a particular good portfolio for Berlin citizens; some cool shirts and hoodies to hang around with in a park in Kreuzberg. Some avant garde brands like Milch to wear at a Gallery opening in Mitte, some basics for the weekend, some chic jackets and dresses for your visit to Charlottenburg, and some trendy stuff to always do well in Prenzlauerberg.
“The winning outfits fit perfectly with the ideas of the two award initiators - that green fashion has to convince not only for its fairness and sustainability, but just as importantly, for its style and design”. This is the concept that THEKEY.TO and DaWanda want to transmit with “READY TO GREEN” Award.Do you believe there is still a paradox to be solved between green fashion and aesthetics?
Well, there's always a reality far beyond the stereotypes. Over the last five years, the possibilities to produce sustainable, to source the right materials and the quality of these materials increased a lot, meaning there's a lot of varieties in green fashion, from a more natural style and coloring, which is a strong segment and also has very stylish and premium examples such as the brand Banuq from Italy, Eelementum form Holland or Flavia Aranha from Brazil. But there's also a lot of brands that have a style that doesn't show this natural profile at all, that are edgy or freaky or just very fashionable. Take a Studio Jux from Holland, a Article23 from France or a Pants to Poverty from the UK. More and more brands show a trend away from any "organic look" towards a more contemporary look. Off course some things are hard to do sustainable, but if I look at my own wardrobe, I have thrown out most synthetic clothes just because I don't feel like this weird plastic stuff on my skin.
What are the main changes that took place in green fashion in the last years? What do you expect for the future?
The production of organic cotton has been rising rapidly, and there's more and more brands to work sustainable or plan to go more sustainable. Although the economical crisis also hit the green brands, it is amazing to see that the market of green fashion products has still been growing. More and more brands will start to commit themselves to a more sustainable approach, and the impact of new sustainable fibers will be larger. And as with the other industries, there's no way back, although in fashion there's still a long, long way to go. This revolution of greening our economy will be in the history books for sure. I hope also social issues will be more on the agenda again, cause the talk is a lot about green and not too much about labour conditions, another topic that still needs to be dealt with properly.
14.7.10
Fiere: THEKEY.TO Acceleration, 8-10 Luglio 2010
Si è appena conclusa la terza edizione di THEKEY.TO, una fiera internazionale del Green Fashion, parte della Berlino Fashion Week.
Il progetto è stato fondato da un team interdisciplinare composto da Frans Prins, Gereon Pilz van der Grinten e Rostislav Komitov.
Ad un anno dalla sua nascita THEKEY.TO ha visto la partecipazione di 46 brand, quasi prevalentemente europei (3 italiani).
Eccoli:
Alila (Austria)
Article 23 (France)
Bleed Clothing (Germany)
Campeche (Italy)
Choolips (UK)
Deux Filles en Fil (France)
Eco zona (Switzerland/Peru)
Elementum (The Netherlands)
Fairliebt (Germany)
Flavia Aranha (Brazil)
Format (Germany)
For Your Earth (France)
Göttin des Glücks (Austria)
Hempage (Germany)
Ideo Collection (France)
I and D – Imitation and Disguise (France) Isabell de Hillerin (Germany)
Kaethe Maerz (Germany)
Klebber Shop (Germany)
Komodo (UK)
Kontiki (Austria)
Lana Naturalwear (Germany)
Magno Wooden Radio (Germany)
Milch (Austria)
Monkee Clothing (Germany)
Nineteenseventythree (UK)
Pants to Poverty (UK)
Po-zu (UK)
POG (Germany)
Pombero (Paraguay)
Privatsachen (Germany)
Queen & Princess (Germany)
ReClothings by Daniel Kroh (Germany)
recolution (Germany)
Regenerate Clothing (UK)
Sante Naturkosmetik (Germany)
Slowmo (Germany)
Stefania Masotto Biomoda (Italy)
Stewart+Brown (US)
Studio Jux (The Netherlands)
Terra Plana (UK)
THTC (UK)
Toodot (Germany)
Treches (Germany)
Verdura (Italy)
Wearpositive (Germany)
Wunderwoll (Germany)
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